Norton commando ignition system

Print it out and stick it on your wall, they blow up to A3 quite well, and would be nice laminated! Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Categories: Aftermarket Upgrades , motorcycles Tagged as: circuit , circuit diagram , commando , electrical , electronic ignition , ignition , motor bike , motor cycle , motorbike , motorcycle , norton , norton commando , tri spark , trispark , wiring , wiring diagram.

I don't think a bit of rain in there would make too much difference. Well I've finally managed to road test my new Trispark ignition and all is not good. Starting and idle is excellent but riding reveals an intermittent brief cut in the ignition that gets worse as the revs rise above Recorded delivery, time, expense, re-fit etc. I've had one of these sat in it's box upstairs for a while now, hopefully this week will see it fitted!

My one big gripe so far was, having decided to go the whole hog and fit their super duper high ouput coils too Trispark ignitions and coils are stocked by LP Williams. Had a trispark ignition fail on my about 4 years ago so was one of the earlier ones - sent it back to Oz and another returned FOC they crossed in the post - haven't fitted it as I now carry a spare and am using Wassell, which again has let me down once but the spare black box gets you going again.

I'm planning on leaving the Boyer in place and having the option of a quick swap of rotor and stator should anything fail again. A photo on my phone will serve as a reference for positioning of the bits to get the timing in the ball park. I've had a Tri-Spark on my for 7 years or so and it's the best thing since sliced bread. The bike starts first kick and has never kicked back, I have even betted people it will start first kick and it did I only use a 6amp battery as well.

I didn't know about the resister plugs or caps, I haven't got resistors in either of mine. I've had a few Boyers in my Commando and my Trident and they went in the bin and I converted it back to points, which I never really had a problem with. I eventually fitted the Tri-Spark because when it didn't want to start with points it was a pig..! Hello Dave,The resistor caps are meant to reduce the electrical noise radiating from the ignition system.

Sometimes that noise can affect electronic ignition systems but that is not my experience with the Classic Twin. My Trispark is back from Oz after testing. No fault found but they replaced it anyway. Fitted it yesterday and tested and there is still an occasional fart from the misfire at about rpm.

I have been meticulous with the installation and had to space the stator plate out to get the 2mm airgap from the rotor. Starting is excellent and tickover rock solid but it's not right yet. A bit annoying really, I'll give it another go but it will be going back for a refund if it continues to give grief.

I've checked over the wiring and the 2mm air gap and it's still cutting out at above rpm. I can change plugs and leads but they were working fine with the boyer and the same plugs and leads but with 12v coils worked ok on points. Any ideas? Sorted it out at last. By wiring the supply to the ignition direct from the battery via a switch the problem has ceased.

I have a Boyer powerbox fitted and also a digital voltmeter. I noticed that coincidently to the ignition cut out, that the voltmeter was going blank. I wonder if the Powerbox delivers it's charge in steps and that was interfering with the ignition supply. It never effected the old Boyer ignition. The trip to the AGM in April in the rain resulted in a misfire.

Re-fitted the Boyer, fine. Try again with the Trispark, Rimini rally fine until the San Marino run and a shower had it misfiring again, Boyer on, fine. Try the Trispark again to the Kendal rally, more rain more misfiring. Try again, trispark on, all well until I wash the bike after a dirty ride. After some time drying things off with a hot air gun it works again.

With two 6 volt coils in series and a wasted spark, I can't work out why there is a problem firing two coils in a little bit of rain when Boyer or points works the same coils and leads with no problem.

I'd stick with the Boyer. Mine has been on my Mk3 since with no issues, wet , dry, hot or cold. I carry a spare new kit on longer distances so any part can be replaced but never had to open it! Starts first lick from cold too.

My twin coils are the originals, BTW! Just make sure your battery is in good order, I find the new gel battery's hold their charge for longer. I can't quite understand, if the Boyer ignition was and is working ok, what prompted the change to Trispark.

The Boyer system, on my old Commando was, literally, an absolute pain, and probably accounts for my current knee problem! Whilst my Boyer is working well enough, I decided to take advantage of the at the time favourable exchange rate and upgrade my 35 year old Boyer. Also the extra bit of retard at low revs to facilitate good tickover and easy start appealed. The idea of improving the old girl and taking her into the future has proved to be a tedious experience. The model had three positions and three sets of terminals The models were simple on-off switches with two sets of terminals.

The more common switch type is the triumph one, which you see more frequently sold by aftermarket resellers. However, it sounds like your switch is not one of these, as they did not have the momentary spring loaded starter position. On the Commando harness there are a lot of wires that come together in this switch.

To be honest with you, I would prefer to see the correct switch in place, as it is better suited to handle the amps of the lighting. Since you have invested in a new harness, it would be a shame to start butchering it up to make it fit your switch. I am planning on eliminating the blue capacitor and the warning light assimilator. I am disposing of the 2 x ign coils and bracket and fitting a Pazon Dual Output Digital ign coil with a Boyer electronic ign — so no ballast resistor, condensor pack, breakers, etc.

The zenor and rectifier will be replaced with a more modern unit. Our group friend Benji Bishop has done very similar — even including the ICM warning light assimilator replacement. I use these myself, and they are great! Thanks Grant — Appreciated Last question I hope!! Both the Boyer electronic ign and the Pazon dual outlet digital coil are used parts and have been gifted to me. I need to be sure they will work together ok.

Could you clear this up for me please? Will my setup work satisfactorily?